Daylight Photography
(above)I usually go for a high aperature number (which in this case is F8)which of gives a slow shutterspeed, but because the camera is mounted on a tripod this causes no problem
Playing with the aperature (using different aperature-settings,manual mode) can create interesting results (blurred background, or parts of the scale-model are a bit blurred)
The abundance of chromed parts (in a scale-model)can, in mine experience, hinder the autofocus-mechanism, in that case go for (if possible) the focus lock AF lock or manual focus shooting mode.
(above)With the camera mounted on a tripod there is enough time to finetune things, for instance the exposure compensation
A nice feature of the Canon Powershot S3 IS (and many Powershots) is the bracketing function, this function enables you to take 3 photo's with one push of the button, 1 photo will be under-exposed, 1 photo will be normal exposed and 1 photo will be over-exposed, all adjustable.
For the Web, i tend to use the slighly over-exposed photo's.
(above) A typically daylight setup, just white paper/cardboard, and this all preferably near a window.
(above)The tulip-symbol (macro-mode, on may brands of digital camera's), a frequent used feature when shooting scale models
Artificial light Photography
(above) The Light Box setup, just 3 lamps. When there is a possibility for a custom white-balance setting; use it ,or else use the "Tungsten"setting (in the case with light-bulbs) (all in manual mode)
(above) Honda CBR 1100XX Super Blackbird parts (in what should be "mute"black), this photo was shot with a custom white-balance (it was "set" on the white paper)
The cardboard lightbox, just a box cut open (front side, the sides, and the upperside) covered with old white bedsheets.
The intensity of the lights can be changed be just moving the lights (and thus "playing with shadows").